Luxury Travel

Review: Cirqa, a Relais & Châteaux Hotel, Arequipa (Peru)

November 13, 2024

Wednesday newsletters always feature a hotel or flight review.

Last summer, I enjoyed a terrific holiday in Peru. You can read my trip reports here:

Review: KLM (old) Business Class Boeing 777 from Amsterdam to Lima
Review: Central, world’s best restaurant 2023, Lima
Review: Cirqa Hotel, Arequipa (today)
Review: Puqio Hotel, Colca Canyon
Review: Titilaka Hotel, Lake Titicaca
Review: Titicaca Luxury Train, from Puo to Cusco
Review: Explora Valle Sagrado, Sacred Valley
Review: Rio Sagrado, a Belmond Hotel, Sacred Valley
Review: Hiram Bingham, a Belmond Train, from Cusco to Machu Picchu
Review: Sanctuary Lodge, a Belmond Hotel, Machu Picchu
Review: Inca trail to Machu Picchu
Review: Fausto Hotel, Lima
Review: KLM (new) Business Class Boeing 777 from Lima to Amsterdam

Today: Hotel Cirqa (Arequipa, Peru)

Cirqa – a Relaix & Chateaux Hotel – echoes the wonders of 1540 — the year in which Arequipa was founded — and magnificently celebrates the city’s immaculate white sheen. This recently restored former monastery embodies Arequipa’s traditional architecture by flaunting its original sillar volcanic rock walls, which were carefully sculpted by local stonemasons. The captivating decor adds a modern touch, creating a unique balance between the past and present. The eleven rooms, some with restored vaulted ceilings, surround the main terraza & patio. At the hotel’s Salón, the cuisine is an innovative reinterpretation of the region’s gastronomic soul and iconic picanterías, and can be enjoyed while admiring the prodigious lunar landscapes that surround this delectable haven of peace. Cirqa is not simply a place to stay; it is a memory in and of itself.

Cirqa features in my top 10 list of the best luxury hotels in Peru.

Have you ever stayed at Cirqa? If so, what was your experience? Leave a comment.

In this review (more info and photos below my YouTube video):

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PROS & THINGS I LIKE

Cirqa Hotel is located in the center of Peru’s second largest city, Arequipa, often referred to as the ‘White City’. Arequipa may not get as much international attention as Lima, Cuzco or Machu Picchu, but it is a stunning destination in itself. More than 500 grand colonial-era houses in the historic center – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – take visitors back to another time, to the earliest beginnings of the fusion between European and Andean traditions, as expressed in the city’s vaulted roofs and arches of white stone, made from the local volcanic rock known as “sillar”. The historic center of Arequipa also houses dozens of traditional restaurants, or “picanterías”, where stone mortars and clay pots are used to prepare the finest stuffed peppers and shrimp chowder. Cirqa Hotel is just one block from Arequipa’s main square, Plaza de Armas, so the property is perfectly located for sightseeing.

Cirqa is housed in a historic building – a former monastery – which was founded in the same year as the city of Arequipa, 1940. It was then that Alonso De Luque, a renowned scribe, and his wife Isabel de Vega Sarmiento became the first documented owners of the land on which Cirqa now sits. The pair never developed this land, and left it to the Augustinean Order upon their passing, on the condition the Order build a church with cloisters, patios, orchards and gardens as well an altar for Saint Nicholas of Tolentino. The Order did fulfil this request, however construction was fated to become a centuries-long process of rebuilding and restyling as successive earthquakes left their marks on the monastery from 1582 through the late 1800’s. Peru’s independence from Spain in 1826 marked a significant divergence from the previously-clear trail of ownership and the property was handed over to the treasury and split into thirds for separate families and private ownership. Today, two thirds of the original property correspond to Cirqa.

Tales of grand celebrations, whispered conspiracies, blessed fates and opulent fortunes still echo through the historic hallways of Cirqa’s 16th century building. The property – which was among the first built by European settlers in the New World – boasts a unique Arequipenean character that has withstood the test of time. Most of the original volcanic rock architecture was preserved during the renovation and transformation of the former monastery into a hotel, while local materials like dark wood, iron elements, lots of glass and mirrors were added. The meticulously restored high-vaulted ceilings, powerful walls, arches and columns were further infused with contemporary fixtures and fittings, making up the soul of the hotel. The team behind the hotel’s astounding design & architecture are owner Ignacio Masias, designer Sandra Masias, and architects Stephanie Chang and Daniel Cisneros. They choose the name CIRQA, with a Q, to honor the history of the property in tandem with the history and chronology of Arequipa itself

Cirqa Hotel features 11 exquisite rooms, centered around the hotel’s main terraza and patio. Each room embodies is a timeless homage to the ancient monastery chambers & features its own unique characteristics in addition to sophisticated modern details. All rooms include a Smart TV with DirecTV & Netflix, air-conditioning, a wireless speaker, organic amenities, & a complimentary snacks-and-drinks hamper. During my visit at Cirqa, I stayed in the Boveda Room, a magnificent and spacious bedroom, with original high-vaulted ceilings that recalled ancient Parador times. The room was uniquely outfitted with sculptural wooden furnishings, linens in earthy hues, contemporary fixtures, and a private sitting area. The open-plan ensuite bathroom featured a stand-alone bathtub, a cabin with a walk-in shower and a lavatory. The room’s architectural highlight were the large glass windows that had been inserted into the century-old arches, creating an atmosphere of old-world tranquility.

Cirqa is a small boutique property, and it encourages its guests to explore the city of Arequipa and its surrounding. Nonetheless, the hotel also features some beautiful communal areas in case you’d like to spend some relaxing moments at the hotel itself, perhaps after a day of exploring the city center. At the heart of the hotel is a lovely patio with a small heated plunge pool (which is open from sunrise to sunset). Right next to the patio is a beautiful spa room with a vaulted ceiling, where treatments can be offered by skilled therapists upon request. One of the hotel’s highlights is its rooftop terrace which offers stunning views of Arequipa’s volcanoes & the surrounding neighbourhoods -great for sundowners. Inspired by old Picanterias, the rooftop terrace’s design resembles the structure of the first Arequipenean road-stops, where travelers from all around would gather to drink and eat traditional food before continuing on to their destinations.

Breakfast, lunch, & dinner are served in Cirqa’s sole restaurant, which comprises an indoor dining room (called The Salón) and an outdoor shaded terrace (called The Terraza). The contemporary Salón combines a casual sitting area with a monastic dining room and a large fireplace. Its décor is complemented by long tables and carefully selected tableware that create an organic aesthetic and tranquil ambiance. The Terraza offers an open space sitting & dining area with a comfortable feel & fire pits. Both are available for guests or walk-ins who have made prior reservations. The restaurant’s chef – Maria Fé García – pays tribute to her grandmother’s recipes while intermingling definitive flavors into the dishes. With rocotitos rellenos and adobo de cerdo leading the way, she offers Arequipenean takes on foodie favorites like squid ink pasta, salmon, and even mille-feuille for dessert.

Cirqa is one of the newest members of Relais & Châteaux in South America. Founded in 1954, Relais & Châteaux is the premier designation for independent luxury restaurants and properties around the world. Today, the collection has grown to more than 580 landmark hotels and restaurants operated by independent owners around the globe who share a passion for providing guests the most unique and memorable experiences possible. In order to meet the exacting standards of Relais & Châteaux, each property or restaurant must pass a rigorous inspection process while at the same time express unique traits that value the ethos of the organization.

Cirqa is managed by Andean, the Peruvian luxury travel company who reinvents the art of travel I the country by showcasing the true essence of Peru through inspiring destinations, innovative accommodations, and authentic experiences. As an industry pioneer in the design and development of owner-managed hotels and carefree travel, Andean takes guests on journeys from the historic vibrancy of the city to the timeless serenity of Peru’s unspoiled side. Each experience is complemented by seamless serendipity, remarkable local cuisine, nourishment for the soul, and an understated elegance that is uniquely Peruvian. Andean manages three other hotels, offering a neat circuit known as the Southern Peru Travesia: Lima, Arequipa, the Colca Canyona and Lake Titicaca.

CONS & THINGS TO KNOW

Cirqa is a magnificent boutique hotel with only 18 rooms. No two rooms are alike, due to the fact that the architects had to work within the constraint of existing structures in the heritage monastery building. Beware that some of the rooms are small and lack outdoor windows (except for a windowed entrance door). But no matter what room type you book, all rooms are ancredibly atmospheric, with a stunning fusion of old and new, of stone, steel and glass.

Cirqa features limited facilities, with just one restaurant, a beautiful Jacuzzi and one spa room on site. However, it all fits the boutique character of the hotel as the excitement to stay at Cirqa isn’t perhaps about the facilities offered by the hotel, but about the hotel itself. The main draw of Cirqa are the sensitive reinvention of its past as a monastery, the beautifully designed rooms, the impeccable service and the calm and serene ambiance, even though the hotel located right in the center of bustling Arequipa.

MY VERDICT

Location: 9/10
Design: 10/10
Pool: n/a
Rooms: 9/10
Food: 8/10
Breakfast: 8/10
Spa: n/a
Service: 10/10
Wow factor: 9/10
Value for money: 10/10
Overall experience: very good 8.8/10

TIPS FOR FUTURE GUESTS & SAVE MONEY

Save money: read here my tips for getting the best deal at a luxury hotel like Cirqa (and/or receive many free perks).

Read my tips for preparing your trip in time.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

The city of Arequipa enjoys around 300 days of sunshine each year. The best time to visit Arequipa is anytime from April to November when the weather is pleasant. Conditions are sunny with blue skies, and daytime temperatures are mild.

HOW TO GET THERE

Cirqa is located one block from Arequipa’s Plaza de Armas, within walking distance of many of its finest cultural sites. There are daily multiple flights from both Lima and Cusco to Arequipa’s airport. The transfer from the airport to the hotel is 30 minutes by car.