Glacier Lodge Eqi, Greenland
Thunderous echoes of crashing ice ripple throughout the bay like a relentless refrain of nature’s beat.
Nothing can put together you for the sound of a glacier calving. It’s a clap, crack and deep rumble that rolls throughout the floor of the water, seemingly gathering pitch and pace. The most effective half, it’s a delayed sound so it is advisable actually focus and watch the glacier to really catch a calving in motion. In the event you await the sound you’ll at all times be 7-10 seconds too late as a consequence of how sound travels throughout the fjord.
Positioned a 3.5hr ice breaker boat experience north of Ilulissat, Eqi Glacier is likely one of the world’s most lively and there’s little question a go to will embrace it’s justifiable share of tumbling ice reveals. Because the boat cruises by way of the Ataa Strait, teal colored water shares the scene with icebergs ranging in sizes from mega mansions by way of to dinner plates* (*not official measurements 😉). If a protracted boat experience sounds boring, then you definately’ve been on board the flawed boats. This one is endlessly fascinating. Each passing iceberg is exclusive in form, tone and sample making the journey a photographer’s buffet of potential photographs.
Earlier than arriving to Port Victor to disembark at Glacier Lodge Eqi, the boat spends roughly two hours bobbing about straight in entrance of the glacier wall. With calvings occurring continually, you’ll be able to {photograph} from the highest deck and watch in marvel because the true energy of nature turns into more and more evident. It’s not till the next day’s hike did I realise how small we actually had been on the boat, a tiny pink speck amongst an unlimited sea of icebergs.
Measurement right here is definitely one thing that’s actually, REALLY exhausting to find out. What appears comparatively shut could also be 2km away and that is as a result of panorama being so overwhelmingly expansive with nearly no level of reference for comparability. The boat is likely one of the solely comparisons you’ll see all through your keep on the lodge and as soon as it arrives the subsequent day you’ll all of the sudden really feel like an ant in a bizarrely massive world. However that’s getting too far forward…let’s get again to the beginning of the journey.
Because the boat pulls in to Port Victor, named after the French explorer Paul-Émile Victor who used the world as a base camp whereas researching the glacier greater than 100yrs in the past, we’re warned to get off rapidly. The specter of a tsunami attributable to massive calvings is ever current and the workforce at all times have somebody on wave watch till all friends are above the protection zone. Nothing like an adrenaline enhance to kick begin a 3 day glamping expertise I’ll always remember.
Glacier Lodge Eqi is likely one of the closest locations you will get to feeling such as you’re on the finish of the world. There’s no roads, no retailers, no city, no wifi, no telephone sign…simply someplace cosy to relaxation your head at evening and a world of alternatives to discover the great thing about Greenland.
Company can select between one in all 4 luxurious cabins which have entry to operating water and electrical energy, customary huts or the model new glamping tents, each of which don’t have operating water or electrical energy however share rest room and bathe amenities. Whereas the bathroom could also be a brief hike away from the hut or tent, it implies that each time you go it’s a mini journey. It’s like roughing it with out the organising half, oh and, you’ve received skilled guides, cozy bedding, blankets, non-public decks and a really gifted chef…so not too tough!
Having glamped earlier than within the tropical paradise of the Cook dinner Islands, I used to be wanting to sleep in the identical circumstances on the opposite aspect of the world, contrasting climates and environment. World of Greenland had solely simply arrange the tents previous to my keep and as one of many first friends, I couldn’t have been extra impressed. Wandering down the picket ramp towards Tent C and up the steps to my non-public balcony (aka viewing deck to among the finest reveals on this planet), I did a cheerful dance…as a lot as I might muster whereas carrying my digital camera bag and tote for the journey.
Opening the door to the tent revealed an area that will’ve made any explorer’s job a lot simpler, in truth, with my tent trying onto the unique hut used a long time in the past, I’ve received nothing however the utmost respect for his or her efforts on this harsh surroundings. Fitted out with pure tones and delicate textures, the room is extra boutique lodge than tent. Blankets, rugs, pillows plus area to hold your garments, a desk and even a fuel heater for when it will get somewhat chilly.
With the lodge solely accessible in the summertime months, there’s a superb probability a keep right here will coincide with the midnight solar. We’ve all had these sleepless nights the place your thoughts is stressed and telling you to remain awake with ideas…the midnight solar has an analogous impact but it surely’s weirdly calming and invigorating. Rugged up and enjoyable on the balcony, I stayed up nicely previous midnight to sit down and hearken to the glacier calving because the solar ventured towards the horizon, barely touching it earlier than beginning to rise once more.
One factor to say, when sleeping within the tents there’s little sound proofing. For me, this was complete bliss as a result of it meant I might lie in mattress and hearken to the sound of the glacier because it calved all through the evening. On my first evening I used to be leaping off the bed each jiffy in an try and see what appeared like the most important calving ever, however alas, the pace of sound meant I used to be tricked every time haha. In the event you’re delicate to sounds at evening I’d counsel bringing ear plugs although!
For photographers there’s no finish to that heat, photogenic mild because it modifications the landscapes earlier than your eyes. Photographing the glacier is like capturing a unique topic at each look. Out of your hut or tent you should utilize a zoom lens just like the Olympus 300mm f4 to {photograph} the patterns and calvings, or, if you wish to get somewhat nearer, there’s a guided hike included in your keep.
Setting off after breakfast, the hike takes roughly 4-5hrs and traverses alongside the coast, over a waterfall and as much as one significantly breathtaking view simply 800m from the glacier. It’s not significantly strenuous however does require a steep ascent in the direction of the tip and a few minor obstacles alongside the best way….each completely well worth the effort.
With packed lunches and snacks, you’re then in a position to sit and absorb the sounds, sights and feeling of someplace so environmentally vital. These staying two nights on the lodge can decide to remain behind somewhat longer and hike again on their very own, one thing I in a short time put my hand as much as do as a result of there’s one thing so magnetising about watching a glacier calve.
Staying somewhat longer additionally ends in the comparability I discussed earlier. At roughly 11:30am you’ll get an opportunity to identify the boat because it arrives up the ice fjord. Our information joked that it’s fairly a enjoyable recreation to seek out it and it’s not till you really see the boat dwarfed within the distance by icebergs that you just realise how really minute it’s amongst the surroundings.
Fast Suggestions –
– If staying within the huts or tents with out energy, you’re welcome to make use of the ability shops in Café Victor to cost your cameras/telephones.
– Take solely a small bag together with your digital camera gear and belongings for the keep. From the boat there’s somewhat uphill hike over the rocks and in case you’ve received something bigger than a backpack it’ll be a battle. You possibly can retailer your baggage on the World of Greenland in Ilulissat workplace earlier than departure.
– Be ready with a lot of layers because the climate can change rapidly. Within the arctic I at all times counsel having thermals, a fleece layer, thicker jacket + windproof layer. A beanie, neck warming fleece (my saviour on arctic journeys!), gloves and unusually sufficient…additionally layers like a t-shirt as a result of it may be fairly heat within the solar if there’s no wind. Additionally sun shades as a result of that solar doesn’t set!
– Don’t fear about meals, you’re supplied with scrumptious meals throughout your keep and might alert the workforce to any allergic reactions or dietary necessities earlier than arrival! In the event you’re a little bit of a late evening snacker like me, then take a deal with or two to nibble whilst you’re watching the glacier out of your balcony. Drinks and snacks can be found to buy from Café Victor.
– When on the boat, don’t neglect to move to the higher deck for nice views on the journey up and again from Eqi Glacier.
Really useful Digital camera Tools –
As a result of the glacier is roughly 2-3km from the lodge, I extremely suggest having a top quality zoom lens in your bag. I took the next with me and managed to make use of each single lens since you’ve received loads of time to check out varied vantage factors and angles.
Olympus E-M1X + E-M1 MKII
– M.Zuiko 300mm f4 – nice for capturing nearer particulars of the glacier and calvings from the camp
– M.Zuiko 40-150mm f2.8 – good whereas climbing to make use of as the first zoom lens as a consequence of it’s versatility.
– M.Zuiko 12-40mm f2.8 – whereas I didn’t use this one as a lot, it was nice to have whereas climbing to seize the surroundings and in addition to {photograph} the whole view from my tent.
– M.Zuiko 7-14mm f2.8 – I used this to {photograph} the midnight solar stars above my tent and in addition whereas wandering round camp to showcase the scene.
– DJI Mavic Air Drone – I’ll admit, I’m a complete wuss in the case of flying my drone and like when there’s nobody round or nothing too shut. This made Eqi the perfect place to fly, nevertheless, as a result of lack of satellite tv for pc sign and magnetic pull of the glacier, it’s fairly harmful as there’s a excessive probability your drone could fly north and by no means return.
This in thoughts, I used the drone from my tent and flew straight above the camp to seize an general picture of the world. I additionally took the drone on a brief hike to seize some aerials of the icebergs…I didn’t fly it over the glacier after listening to what number of drones had been misplaced up there. Whereas flying, my drone misplaced contact a number of occasions and I wasn’t ever additional than 100m away exhibiting simply how little sign there may be up there! So fly at your individual threat 😊
As with all visible opinions, I’ll let the photographs do the speaking so please see a group of pictures from my keep under…
To learn extra in regards to the expertise or guide your individual, go to worldofgreenland.com
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Hey! I’m the founder and photographer behind The Wandering Lens.
With 17+yrs expertise as knowledgeable journey and panorama photographer, all recommendation discovered on this website is from my private expertise on the highway. I hope it’s helpful to your personal travels and would love to listen to within the feedback about your journeys and experiences around the globe.