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Monday, September 23, 2024

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A Traditional Hike within the Faroe Islands


Bookended by two of the Faroe Islands’ most enchanting villages, the path between Saskun and Tjørnuvík is without doubt one of the archipelago’s basic walks. Positioned on Streymoy Island, the route traverses a scenic move and showcases an unforgettable assortment of cascades, lagoons, sea stacks, and charming turf-roofed cottages. It’s a hike that epitomizes the “land that point forgot” feeling synonymous with touring within the Faroes.

The village of Tjørnuvík. 

At a Look

Distance:  14.5 km (9 mi) (Out-and-back)

Common Period:  6-8 hrs

Issue Stage:  Reasonable

Whole Elevation Achieve: 1,204 m (3,950 ft)

Begin/End: Saskun – Tjørnuvík / Streymoy Island

Trying down towards the traditional hamlet of Saskun (Inhabitants: 11) and the Pollurin tidal lagoon (aka Saskun Lagoon).

Planning Data:

  • Getting There & Away: Logistically talking, the best choice is to depart your automobile at one of many trailheads and do the hike as an out-and-back tour. Issues are somewhat extra sophisticated when you don’t have your personal transport or solely need to hike a method. In that case, your choices are as follows: 1. A pre-arranged dropoff and pick-up with a tour firm; 2. Hitchhike out of your ending level again to your automobile, and; 3. In case you don’t have a automobile and don’t need to pay for a tour, you may make the most of public transport to entry Tjørnuvík, however you’ll nonetheless have to hitch to or from Saskun, which isn’t serviced by public transport. 
  • Getting Round: Throughout my time within the Faroe Islands, I used a mix of buses, ferries, and hitching. I principally utilized the superb (and really reasonably priced) bus system, which obtained me to a lot of the locations I needed to go. For an outline of the archipelago’s public transport choices, see the Go to Faroe Islands web site. (Be aware: I picked up a Faroe Islands Journey Card upon arrival at Vagar Airport)
  • Permits & Charges: No, on each counts.
  • On-line Data: For something and every little thing associated to touring within the Faroes, see the superb Go to Faroe Islands web site. It has a great deal of data on transport and lodging choices, cultural sights, and mountain climbing trails (together with a free downloadable 56-page information to hikes on the archipelago). Who am I kidding? If I have been you, I’d cease studying this text and go straight there.
  • Mid-hike Sustenance: Throughout the summer time months, you might be able to buy espresso and a few scrumptious waffles in Tjørnuvík. Positioned within the village heart and run by long-time resident Hans Esbern Heinesen, search for the “pop-up” restaurant with picnic tables.

Waffle Central in Tjørnuvík.

Path Notes:

Overview: From a topographical perspective, don’t count on a lot in the way in which of flat terrain; mainly, you ascend from one coastal village to a mountain move after which descend to the opposite coastal village (after which flip round and do it once more). The path is nicely marked, although I think about it might be difficult to observe in driving rain and thick fog. No matter how good the circumstances could also be once you set out, that is one tour it’s best to by no means undertake with out adequate insulation layers, rain gear, navigational instruments, and a very good provide of stoicism within the face of famously changeable climate. 

Multi-tiered waterfall overlooking Saskun.

Description (Saskun > Tjornuvik): Throughout the preliminary climb out of Saskun, the way in which is denoted with purple publish markers. As you acquire elevation, these quickly give option to often spaced cairns. Climbing steadily, the views over Saskun, the lagoon, and its surrounding cliffs and waterfalls are chic, and after 3.5 km (2.2 mi) of huffing and puffing, the mountain move (480 m/1,575 ft) is attained. The path’s excessive level is located between Melin (764 m/2,507 ft) and Heyggjurin Mikli (692 m/2,270 ft) peaks. In high-quality climate, it’s a splendidly scenic place to take pleasure in a well-earned relaxation. In moist, windy, and foggy circumstances, likelihood is you’ll seize a snack, take a fast snapshot or two, and start the descent sooner moderately than later.

Approaching the move between Saskun and Tjornuvik.

View from the move, wanting again towards Saskun.

Dawn from the move the next morning (wanting towards Tjørnuvík) (Be aware: I climbed again to the excessive level to look at the solar come up).

As you observe the cairn-marked path to the northeast, it’s not lengthy earlier than Tjørnuvík comes into view. Gazing outwards over the village, among the many most notable options are the ocean stacks of Risin and Kellingin (Risin og Kellingin), which translate to “The Big and the Witch (see Notes & Musings beneath). Roughly two hours after leaving the move, hikers will arrive within the storybook village of Tjørnuvík.

I hiked the path as an out-and-back tour starting and ending in Tjørnuvík. Actually, it was a bit extra like a waddle than a hike for the preliminary climb, as I over-indulged on the waffle place earlier than setting out.

Steeped in historical past and wealthy in pure magnificence, human settlement in Tjørnuvík dates again a minimum of to the time of the Vikings within the tenth century and presumably a couple of hundred years earlier within the type of seafaring Irish monks. Nevertheless, it’s the hamlet’s jaw-dropping setting that makes it one of many Faroe Islands’ premier sights. The northernmost village on Streymoy Island, Tjornuvik, is surrounded on three sides by steep-sided mountains and bordered on the opposite by a blinding black sand seaside and a horseshoe-shaped bay. With a everlasting inhabitants of 48, Tjornuvik is a veritable metropolis in comparison with Saskun. 

The attractive beachside/mountain-ringed village of Tjørnuvík.

Satan’s-Bit Scabious (Succisa pratensis) usually blooms within the Faroes between June and October.

Notes & Musings

  • From Harbour to Tidal Lagoon: Saskun’s inlet was as soon as a serviceable pure harbor till an enormous storm within the 1600s crammed it with sand, remodeling it right into a seawater lagoon, inaccessible to all however small boats at excessive tide.

Saskun graveyard and tidal lagoon.

  • The Big and the Witch: Positioned underneath Eidiskollur Peak on the tip of Eysturoy Island are the legendary sea stacks of Risin and Kellingin (Risin og Kellingin / Translation: “Big & the Witch”). In response to legend, the rock columns have been shaped when the giants of Iceland needed so as to add the Faroe Islands to their area. They dispatched the eponymous big and his witch partner to realize the duty. Nevertheless, the target proved extra sophisticated than the absent-minded couple anticipated. Whereas immersed of their labors, they forgot that they may solely work at evening. Positive sufficient, when the primary rays of daybreak shone upon them, the enormous and the witch remodeled into stone, and there they continue to be to at the present time. 

Looking on the “Big and the Witch” from the black sand seaside of Tjørnuvík.

The Big, the Witch, and Eidiskollur Peak.

  • The Previous Farmhouse and the Reconstituted Church: Amongst Saskun’s charming assortment of turf-roofed buildings, essentially the most notable are the Dúvugarður farm and the Saksunar Kirkja church. The previous dates again to the 1700s and capabilities as a Nationwide Heritage museum that gives guests an perception into early farm life within the Faroe Islands. The latter was inbuilt Tjørnuvík however in 1858 was disassembled and introduced over to Saskun, the place it was reconstructed. The supplies have been transported by way of the identical mountain move traversed on the featured path – one thing to consider whilst you’re making the journey carrying nothing greater than a featherweight daypack!

Dúvugarður Farm in Saskun.

The turf-roofed farmhouses of Saskun.

Saksunar Kirkja church

 

Be aware: Saskun to Tjørnuvík is considered one of 26 featured trails in my newest ebook with Gestalten Publications, Wanderlust Nordics. Together with two different rambles within the Faroes Islands (see hyperlinks beneath), the ebook options all kinds of hikes from Iceland, Norway, Greenland, Sweden, and Finland. From family-friendly day hikes to difficult multi-week treks, there’s one thing to go well with everybody from newbies to skilled vets. The ebook is at the moment on sale at Amazon……….at round half value! 

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