Đà Lạt’s diverse culinary scene has something for everyone, from authentic local breakfasts to cosy hot pot nights
“You’re going to Đà Lạt?!” exclaimed Tram Anh, my Vietnamese colleague.
Đà Lạt, the City of Flowers, promised a whirlwind of experiences, and she was eager to share her local secrets. The list was lengthy, more than my three-night visit could fit!
She suggested riding around the lake on a swan boat, strawberry picking, a llama petting zoo, riding the old train, and even a cable car up the mountains.
Food-wise, it was all about the fresh coffee, hot soy milk, avocado ice cream, Đà Lạt’s own “pizza” bánh tráng nướng and the famous breakfast bánh căn, a rice flour pancake with savoury fillings made of quail egg and pork and dipped in the quintessential local fish sauce.
Her expert tips were definitely worth checking out.
As a foreigner, I was lucky to have dear friends like her to give advice. However, constant touristing can be exhausting. The endless search for the ‘best’ spots, the overwhelming crowds, and the need to avoid photobombing ‘influencers in the wild’ can sometimes dampen the experience.
As this trip proved, some of the best local and western foods I’ve had, didn’t have to be the most trending thing on social media. And sometimes, the best finds were right around the corner, in places I hadn’t originally planned to visit.
Bánh Mì Three Ways
I’m sure there are countless ways to prepare the favourite breakfast meal bánh mì xíu mại in Đà Lạt. But as a tourist, I only had the chance to sample three varieties.
Each dish started with the same base of pork ball ingredients, but boasted unique broths, herbs, pickled vegetables and dipping sauces, ranging from bland to spicy to perfectly balanced.
Accompanying these tightly packed flavorful morsels is the traditional Vietnamese bread, bánh mì. Unlike the softer, lighter southern versions I’m accustomed to, these Đà Lạt breads maintained their satisfying crunch throughout the day, with a fluffy interior that wasn’t just empty air.
Contrary to my earlier listicle snobbery, this spot, Bánh Mì Hồng at 72 Yersin Street in Ward 10 truly stands out among the three. Conveniently located next to other home-style breakfast stalls serving noodles and Vietnamese style coffee, it’s the perfect starting point for a one-street food tour in a less touristy area.
Croissant, Mon Amour
I know this might sound controversial, but hear me out: one of the best things I love about Đà Lạt were the croissants. They were fluffy, not overly buttery, and incredibly satisfying. I didn’t have a single disappointing croissant during my entire trip.
No wonder one of the many names of this city is Le Petit Paris. Not only is the scenery in the French Quarter quite European, but local cafes have made the croissant their own.
I just wanted a quick whistle-stop at The Choco handmade chocolate shop and cafe at 1 Quang Trung Street in Ward 9 after visiting the Đà Lạt Railway Station, but the croissants transformed it into a much longer, more indulgent break. Skip the coffee and dip this flaky delight into a cup of hot cocoa.
I’ve never been to Paris, but I am betting that Đà Lạt’s croissants could give the French a run for their money.
Hot pot on a cool night
November is perhaps one of the best months to visit Đà Lạt. During my visit, the weather was ideal: sunny days, occasional afternoon clouds, and pleasantly cool nights around 17°C. This perfect balance allowed me to enjoy the city’s charm while staying comfortable in fashionable scarves, jumpers, and even flip-flops.
This weather made it perfect for a serving of lẩu gà lá é, a local dish featuring chicken hot pot with é leaves. These leaves, from the betel vine family, have a tangy, minty flavor and are said to be good for our health.
The free-range chicken, while lean and flavourful, required a bit of chewing. However, the rich, comforting broth more than made up for it. The meal was complemented by a variety of fresh ingredients, including mushrooms, bamboo shoots, leafy greens, and rice noodles.
Chicken hot pot restaurants are a dime a dozen in Đà Lạt. It seems like every other street corner boasts a cosy eatery specialising in this comforting dish. We settled on Vườn Nướng Quán at 39 Quang Trung Street in Ward 9 just three-doors down from our homestay.
The place was pure nhậu nhậu with diners huddled around bubbling pots, perched on small red plastic stools. The aroma of simmering broth, fresh herbs, and sizzling meat filled the air. A beer promotion girl, a common sight in Vietnamese eateries, circulated among the tables, acting as official photographer for workers knocking off on a Friday night raising their glasses and shouting “một, hai, ba, dô!” The chatter of families catching up, kids playing, and the excited buzz of young university students arriving for a weekend motorbike getaway, created a lively atmosphere.
Tapping into patience for craft beer
Heading down a hilly road, I was eager to try Leme Craft Beer at 24 Hoàng Hoa Thám Street in Ward 10. Another Vietnamese friend had recently visited the city and raved about this spot. And I was curious to see if it could compete with the best breweries in Asia, as Vietnam’s craft beer scene continues to gain international recognition.
But no one was there except an open bar!
After a few minutes, I see a note near the entrance informing customers to call a local number or if we were foreigners, to use the Telegram messenger app to be served.
Considering myself a ‘local’, I call the number and our friendly young host answered to say, that he’ll be right over as he is just finishing up bottling a new batch of ginger beer.
Waiting patiently, I enjoyed the 90s alternative and grunge music on their playlist. I was amused at how Đà Lạt F&B takes laidback and open door hospitality to a new level. I even helped myself to the bar’s powerpoint to charge my phone – waving at the CCTV camera for permission just in case.
Our host finally arrives after quite a wait and serves up a sampling of three of his freshest brews – a stout, their hazy IPA and a lager.
I personally favored the hazy IPA (ABV 6.5%, IBU 30), offering a harmonious blend of bitter and sweet notes.
Let me know in the comments if you get a chance to visit Leme and what your favorite beer is. I hope that on my next trip, the ginger beer will be ready to taste and transformed into Butter Beer!
Okay, fine, I tried the bánh căn
“You have to eat bánh căn, it’s so good!” went my workmate’s voice in my head.
And so, I did. More than once.
My top pick for this trip has to be Bánh Căn Hiếu at 82 Yersin Street in Ward 10.
Cô Hiếu (Ms Hiếu) is very friendly and will make you feel right at home. She flips these savory pancakes to order, filling them with your choice of fresh chicken eggs, pork mince, shrimp, or squid. Topped with fresh green onions and dipped in a tangy fish sauce, these breakfast delights are definitely a must try when in Đà Lạt.
But as with most things in foodie tour listicles, quality varies. As they say, not all bánh căn’s can! But this one sure did.
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