Everything you need to know

Many a road user have raised their fist to grumble at a car that appears to be following an RV way too closely, only to realise the alleged tailgater is being towed on its wheels. If you’ve ever considered doing it yourself, you’ll realise that flat towing draws strong opinions when the subject is raised.

Flat towing offers many benefits, but before I get into why you might choose to flat tow over other alternatives and the best vehicles to tow, I will explain what flat towing is and settle the debate about its legality across Australia’s states and territories.

What is flat towing?

In simple terms, ‘flat’ or ‘A-Frame’ towing refers to towing a vehicle with all wheels on the ground via a triangle or ‘A’ shaped frame that connects the tow vehicle’s towbar to the front of the towed vehicle’s structural frame. The A-Frame is typically short, and the two vehicles are close together. Not all cars support flat towing, but more on that later.

Here’s a bit of trivia for you: the towed vehicle is commonly referred to as a toad. Hopefully, you will still find a Prince Charming among the options!

Is flat towing legal in Australia?

Yes, flat towing with an A-Frame is legal in every state and territory of Australia. The rules about flat towing vary slightly between the states and territories because this is Australia, and it would be far too simple to have a universal system *rolls eyes*. In all cases, the A-Frame and associated components must comply with Australian Design Rule (ADR) 62 Mechanical Connections between Vehicles. However, the rules on engineering sign-off and operating the towed vehicle’s brakes vary, and NSW/ACT rules are substantially different to the rest of the states and territories.

Here are some useful definitions you’ll need to know for flat towing

Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM):

The maximum a rigid vehicle can weigh including its own weight and payload; accessories, cargo, fuel, driver and passengers. The tow vehicle and towed vehicle each have their own separate GVM.

Note: You won’t have a driver or passengers in the towed vehicle, but don’t think about loading it to the hilt as you may exceed the towed vehicle’s GVM, A-Frame and tow vehicle towbar ratings, the tow vehicle’s maximum tow rating, and the GCM of the combined set-up. It’s just not worth it, and your insurance companies are likely to take a dim view in the event of a claim.

Gross Combination Mass (GCM):

The GVMs of the tow vehicle and towed vehicle plus A-Frame set-up combined; must not exceed the manufacturer of the tow vehicle’s maximum GCM.

Unladen mass:

A vehicle’s weight with fluids in a condition ready to drive with minimal fuel, but without any payload (accessories, cargo, driver* and passengers). Otherwise known as Tare weight. *varies between manufacturers.

Laden mass:

Refers to fully laden in this context. See GVM definition.

3.5:1 tow mass ratio as it applies to braking:

The 3.5:1 tow mass ratio applies if you plan to tow an un-braked vehicle.

• If the unladen mass of the tow vehicle exceeds 3.5 times the laden mass of the towed vehicle, the driver does not need control of the towed vehicle’s brakes from the tow vehicle (with exceptions – see info below).
• If the unladen mass of the tow vehicle is less than 3.5 times the laden mass of the towed vehicle, the driver must have control of the towed vehicle’s brakes from the driver’s seat of the tow vehicle (with exceptions – see info below).

The following table highlights rules for flat towing a vehicle up to 4500kg GVM. However, rules do change, so you should always check with your road authority for the most current rules and call them directly if you don’t understand your obligations.

Note: Unless otherwise required (NSW is the exception), all states and territories accept cable/manual override brakes at a minimum when brakes are required. However, in many cases, electric brakes are a better choice. Speak with an expert to determine the best brakes for your proposed set-up based on the size and weight of both vehicles.

Rules for flat towing a vehicle up to 4500kg GVM in Australia

What happens when you cross borders?

What a confusing jumble of rules! You might be wondering what happens when you cross borders. The good news is, if the set-up is legal in the state or territory in which it is registered, you can legally tow it anywhere in Australia, and the rules of your state or territory govern what you can do.

It’s a good idea to keep a print-out of the rules and any certificates and approvals in the vehicles to prove your set-up is legal in your state or territory. If you have a motorhome or bus registered in one state, and the towed vehicle in another (a very common scenario), the rules from the strictest state apply to the whole set-up, and that’s where you should seek the necessary approvals. The exception is Western Australia, where the entire set-up and both vehicles must be approved and registered in WA.

Is engineering certification transferable?

It is important to note that engineering certification is not transferable, therefore if you change A-Frames, motorhome/bus and/or towed vehicle the set-up must be recertified. Likewise, if you buy second-hand parts, they will need to be serviced and re-certified.

Do I need a different licence to flat tow?

No. If your current licence covers driving the motorhome or bus, you can tow up to the maximum GCM set by the manufacturer of the motorhome or bus. On a car licence, that is up to 4500kg GVM on the motorhome or bus, and the GCM of the combined set-up, subject to the conditions of your licence in your state or territory.

What are the pros and cons of flat towing?

Now that we’ve clarified it’s legal to flat tow, let’s consider some reasons for and against flat towing.

Pros

• You can use the motorhome or bus as a base and have a car to go into town and explore places the bus or motorhome couldn’t have reached. If you’ve chosen to tow a 4X4 you can get off the beaten track.
• There is less weight than a trailer, resulting in better fuel economy and less of a strain on hills.
• The set-up tucks up close behind the motorhome or bus so there is less drag. Depending on size of the motorhome or bus, many people have reported only an extra 1-2L/100km fuel consumption.
• It is legal in all states and territories of Australia, whereas use of ‘dolly’ or ‘gypsy’ trailers may not be.
• Most people find it easier to hook a vehicle up to an A-Frame rather than getting it on a trailer.
• You have one less insurance and registration to pay than if you were to use a trailer.
• You have less tyres to replace.
• You have one less thing to find a parking spot for at home and in caravan parks.
• People won’t know you’re away from the motorhome or bus like they would if there was an empty trailer left at the site.

Cons

• Some small motorhomes and buses won’t have the tow rating nor GCM to tow anything more than a very small car.
• With the last Suzuki Grand Vitaras being made in 2018, no manufacturer selling in Australia supports their vehicles being towed with an A-Frame. This may be a consideration if you have new car warranty remaining on the proposed towed vehicle.
• You must be able to disconnect the driveline – either as a manual gearbox in neutral and/or with a transfer case that can switch to neutral to disconnect the entire driveline.
• There are limited cars that baseplates are manufactured for off-the-shelf, but custom base plates can be made at an additional cost.
• You have to stop every 300km or so to start the engine of the towed vehicle so you don’t drain the battery. To get around this, consider adding a battery charging system via an Anderson plug.
• The odometer of the towed vehicle likely won’t register the trip, but you’ll still be wearing out tyres, suspension components and brakes at a similar rate to if you were driving it.
• The initial set-up tends to be more expensive than a cheap car trailer.
• You can’t reverse the combined vehicles any considerable distance as you’ll soon find the towed vehicle’s steering following the path of least resistance and going to full lock, dragging the tyres. Therefore, you need to plan ahead about where you’ll stop or unhitch the towed vehicle.

What do I need to start flat towing?

There are several components you’ll need to start flat towing. Before purchasing anything, talk to an expert about whether your proposed motorhome/bus and car combination will work. Companies such as Northcoach and Janer specialise in A-Frame towing and can advise you on what’s available to you at different price points before pointing you to their resellers for certified installation.

Most brands for sale on the Australian market can be used by one person, and most consist of the following components:

• A towbar on the tow vehicle.
• A drop receiver (if required). The A-Frame must be parallel with the road on a flat surface when hooking up the towed vehicle. If this is not the case, then a drop receiver is installed to bring the frame into the correct position.
• The A-Frame itself.
• The baseplate. This stays permanently attached to the structural frame of the towed vehicle (typically the chassis or subframe, but sometimes the bullbar). Think of it as a front towbar.
• Cable/manual override or electric brake pedal actuator on the towed vehicle (if required).
• Tow wiring.
• Safety chains/cables and an emergency breakaway system (if required). 

When under tow, the ignition must be on (engine not started) so that the steering lock is disengaged. It is recommended to start the towed vehicle every 300km or so and to keep it running for a few minutes to keep the battery charged, or install a charging system via an Anderson Plug. You must remove or fold the A-Frame out of the way when not in use to avoid any protrusions from either vehicle.

Common flat-towed vehicles in Australia

Note: vehicles are manual unless otherwise noted, and not all year models will work. Consult the baseplate distributor and the owner’s manual regarding suitability.

Second- and third-generation Suzuki Grand Vitara (3- and 5-door, manual and auto) – are by far, the most common. As your resident Grand Vitara expert, I’ve included a guide to choosing the best third-generation Grand Vitara at the end.

• Old and new Suzuki Vitara
• Suzuki Jimny (with modifications)
• Suzuki SX4
• Suzuki Swift
• Suzuki Ignis
• Suzuki Alto (there’s a definite Suzuki flavour)
• Daihatsu Terios
• Jeep Patriot
• Jeep Wrangler
• Toyota RAV4
• Toyota Echo
• Honda CRV
• Hyundai Elantra
• Hyundai Excel
• Hyundai i20
• Hyundai Getz
• Kia Rio
• Fiat 500 Pop
• Various Four-Wheel-Drive utes including Colorado, HiLux, 70-79 Series LandCruiser and various others with steel bullbars (these are heavy and only towed behind the biggest rigs).

A-Frame brands commonly used in Australia

• A-Frames and baseplates available through Northcoach; Ready Brute Elite, Blue Ox Avail, Predator. Braking systems and safety cables by Ready, Blue Ox and RVibrake3. These systems are available through certified installers only.
• Roadmaster Towbars, A-Frames and baseplates available through Janer; Sterling, Blackhawk 2, Falcon, Falcon 2, Stowmaster, Tracker. Braking system by Invisbrake.
• Hitch‘N’Go: A-Frames and associated components available through Hitch’N’Go distributors.
• Hitch’N’Go will be releasing an Australian-made telescopic A Frame around Easter 2020.
• Other notable products: Demco braking system, Protect-A-Tow stoneguard.

There are many brands on the market, the majority from the USA where big RVs and flat towing are popular. The cheapest A-Frame systems use non-telescopic, non-adjustable arms, which are often heavier and less user-friendly to hitch and unhitch, and don’t pack away as small when not in use. Another benefit of telescopic arms is the ability to hitch even when the car isn’t straight on or is on uneven ground.

Remember to close the air vents so your towed vehicle doesn’t fill with dust, just as you would on the motorhome/bus and invest in a stone guard to avoid spraying rocks into the front of the towed car. Mesh type guards seem to work better than the rubber mudflap type.

Is flat towing covered by insurance?

Specialist insurance exists for RVs from the likes of Ken Tame and CIL, and some car insurers such as Shannons cover a limited number of motorhomes along with cars. Whether you choose an insurance provider that covers both vehicles or separate insurance providers, you’re up for two claims in the event of an accident that damages both vehicles.

Choosing a second-hand Suzuki Grand Vitara for flat towing

As a third-generation Grand Vitara owner, I’ve spent a lot of time behind the wheel of the flat tower’s car of choice and hope the information I provide you helps you to buy the right one.

Suzuki moved from a separate chassis and live axles for the third-generation Grand Vitara in 2005 and opted for independent front and rear suspension and a monocoque construction. The result was a mid-sized SUV with sportscar-like handling, permanent All-Wheel-Drive (with a lockable centre diff and low-range on most models), compact size, good vision all round, and enough genuine off-road ability to keep most tourers happy.

You’ll learn below that in the 13 years they were on the market, they had more engines than you’ve had hot breakfasts. Regardless of the engine you choose, lack of clearance is by far their biggest drawback, followed by limited support from the aftermarket.

Third Generation Suzuki Grand Vitara (sold from 2005 – 2018 in Australia)

Drivetrain: 

4X2, permanent AWD (no high/low range) and AWD with 4X4 centre diff lock and high/low range. You want the latter, which allows the transfer case to be set to Neutral specifically for flat towing. Both manual and auto can be towed in the 4X4 centre diff lock version.

Engine choices:

• 1.6L I4 petrol (3-door only, manual only) – slow, underpowered, but no major issues.
• 1.9L I4 diesel (5-door only, manual only) – give this a very wide berth. It’s a Renault-sourced engine plagued with DPF, EGR, injector, timing and turbo issues. It will cause you expensive problems.
• 2.0L I4 petrol (3 or 5-door, manual or auto) – slow, underpowered but no major issues.
• 2.4L I4 petrol (3 or 5-door, manual or auto) – the most popular engine, and the only engine available in the facelift from 2012-2018. Avoid pre-2012 facelift models unless the block or engine has been replaced with one from a newer model. 2008-2009 engines crack blocks and were subject to a recall overseas that never made it to Australia. I’ve seen up to 2011 models report cracked blocks, but none in the 2012+ facelift.
• 2.7L V6 petrol (5-door only, manual or auto) – decent power, manifold-cat issues and oil leaks, otherwise good but the thirstiest of the lot.
• 3.2L V6 petrol (5-door only, auto only) – the most powerful of the lot, also the heaviest and rarest. It runs a very reliable GM Alloytec engine. Thirsty, but not as bad on fuel as the 2.7L.

Common issues with most Suzuki Grand Vitaras

• ABS module fails (symptom: ‘ESC System Service’ warning.)
• Battery failing triggers ‘ESC System Service’ warning.
• Aircon leaks condensation into the front passenger footwell – design fault. It’s a dash out job to jimmy up a more positive connection between the condensation box and the drain through the firewall.
• Fan blower gets noisy.
• Rust in the door frames under the seal at the top.
• Car failing to acknowledge proximity key (some higher-end models were fitted with one). Try replacing the battery in the remote first. If you need to use the vehicle in a hurry the physical key pulls out and can be used to open the doors, the blank pulls out of the ignition barrel and the key can be inserted and turned to start the car. The key warning will often flash when you’re driving as it thinks the key isn’t in the car. Ignore it, it eventually finds the signal.

No Grand Vitara oozes luxury or precision build quality, but they’re honest, fun little 4X4s that work excellently as town runabouts, beach buggies and rocky mountain climbers. Low range is also not low at all, so get used to using the gears and brakes off-road. They don’t have front or rear lockers (although they can be purchased from the aftermarket), but opt for one with traction control. It’s a noisy, basic system but it works very well in place of lockers.

Popular mods to make your Suzuki Vitara more capable

• Lift – Dobinsons, Ironman or OME (in order of highest to lowest lift).
• Snorkel – Safari. While Safari’s site states it only fits the 1.9L diesel and 2.7L petrol it can be massaged to fit the airbox of all engines. The 2.4L requires you to fabricate an adapter as it’s the only model with the airbox inlet in a different position.
• Bullbar – ARB, Ironman, ECB or Xrox (your preference for style – though make sure your springs and shocks are rated for constant load.) Check that it won’t interfere with fitting an A-Frame. Nudge Bars – check first whether they pick up the same points as the A-Frame mounts to as there may be a conflict.
• Underbody protection – Ironman (note that it’s not heavy duty and you’ll bend the transfer case section without hitting anything significant.)
• Recovery points – in the rear run a towbar with a hitch receiver. My Brolga Bits front recovery points likely won’t fit with an A-Frame.
• CB UHF Radio.
• Decent, aggressive all terrain tyres (I personally run BF Goodrich KO2). The largest you can fit without scrubbing is 245/70/16 on the standard width 16” wheels, but 225/75/16 is a good choice as well. If your car comes with 17s or 18s standard, swap them out for 16s as it opens up many more tyres choices.

How to put the transfer case in neutral for flat towing

1. With the engine running, have your foot on the brake.
2. Handbrake off, put the gearbox/transmission in Neutral.
3. Turn transfer case dial to N and hold against the spring until the display flashes ‘N’.
4. Release the knob and wait a few seconds.
5. If you are successful, you will see the message “4WD MODE-N: VEHICLE CAN ROLL”.

Words by Juliette Remfrey

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